The book, "The Real Taste of Jamaica," by native Enid Donaldson, is an authentic Jamaican cookbook. I thought I knew what Jamaican cuisine was--you know, Jerk chicken, shrimp, cinnamon-spiced Pork, and let's not forget the frozen drinks. I eagerly dove into the cookbook, already picturing a dinner party featuring recipes from the book.
Did I mention the author was Jamaican? And the cookbook contained "authentic" Jamaican cuisine? I quickly discovered most of the recipes were not going to end up as Monday night's supper. That is unless my children suddenly develop a craving for calf tongue basted with red wine. Apparently, goat is also quite popular in the islands, as is the ever-tasty pigtail and feet. Before I became "appalled," I took a little mind trip through some unique Southern affinity's.
Let's talk about pork rinds. As a child, I happily munched on those little treats, vaguely wondering what the "rind" of a pig was. If a potato chip company can make pigskin taste delicious, who am I to frown on Jamaican pigtail?
Our perception of food often stems from whether or not you grew up on a farm, or if your family has any members who are avid hunters. I had neither of those, though I loved visiting our relatives who lived far away from the city. I can still vividly recall when my uncles and cousins took my brother's and I on a bullfrog hunting expedition. I was about six at the time, and us "city-kids" had a blast catching giant frogs and plopping them into buckets. Everybody was laughing and having a great old time. Until one of my uncles began the slaughtering-fest. Yikes! My mother, who was also mortified (in a polite sort of way), whisked me away before I could make too much of a scene. I do not think PITA was around back then, but if I had known about the group, I would made the call. In any event, guess what was for dinner that night? Good old Southern fried frog legs. Tastes like chicken. That night I believe I ate a bowl of cereal.
If you are from the South, you are probably familiar with chitins. That is actually short for chitterlings. If you are not exactly sure what a chitlin is, they are the small intestines of animals, usually pigs. They can be simmered, and served with a sauce, or added to soups. A real Southern treat was to batter and fry them. Probably tastes like chicken.
My mother did grow up on a farm, where frugality is synonymous with life. She remembers her mother making headcheese. We are not taking cheddar here. Headcheese is a sausage, made from meaty parts of calf or pig heads. My mother said she remembers peering into a big bowl of the gelatinous mess, and gagging. There is no way headcheese tastes like chicken.
As with chitlins, pork rinds, headcheese and many other seemingly "odd" foods, creative cooks discovered ways to use all parts of the animal. That still goes on all over the world, of course, it is just not so common where there is a fast food restaurant or a grocer on every block. Since the beginning of time, every culture has had its own unique view of what is acceptable and desirable for the dinner table. Or what foods are eaten out of necessity. In any event, though I have no immediate plans to try calf's tongue, or goat, if I were in Jamaica, I would probably be willing to give them a shot. Especially after a frozen drink or two.
Adlen Robinson is a free lance food writer and columnist. Feel free to send her an email with your questions at [email protected].
http://accesswdun.com/article/2003/2/183239