clearn.png
Friday November 27th, 2020 12:58AM

Kenzo explores designer's roots at Paris Fashion Week

By The Associated Press
Related Articles
  Contact Editor

PARIS (AP) — Psychedelic Peruvian paintings covered panel upon panel of Kenzo's fall menswear show that celebrated of one of the designer's fascinating Chinese-Peruvian heritage.

Here are some highlights of Sunday's installment of Paris Fashion Week.

KENZO DESIGNER'S ROOTS

The set, painted by artist Pablo Amaringo, evoked scenes inspired by the hallucinogenic Amazonian "ayahuasca" brew — with multicolor space ships, jungle, parrots and deer merging into one — and had some fashion guests squinting amid fluorescent lighting.

Designer Humberto Leon's family is Tusan, a Peruvian people whose ancestors arrived in Latin America in the 19th century from Guangdong province in China.

The theme provided a rich fashion tapestry in the clothes — from Andean mountaineering styles with woolies, fun hiking boots, utilitarian rucksacks and amassed layering, to ethnic textiles in flashes of bright color.

Beyond the encyclopedic theme, there were some trendy touches in deconstruction — such as a series of cross jackets with Asian-style cinched waists that sported the inner sleeve lining on the outside.

BENDING THE GENDER RULES

A number of houses have in recent seasons been bending the set rules and showing women's pre-collections or women's ready-to-wear during the back-to-back menswear and couture calendar such as Proenza Schouler and Rodarte.

It's seen to maximize exposure given that the world's fashion press is in attendance. Other houses have started to combine women's and men's collections, like Saint Laurent, in a cost-effective move that reduces the amount of glitzy presentations they are obliged to put on.

Kenzo used the menswear media spotlight Sunday to showcase the women's fall-winter ready-to-wear as part of the same runway show.

The styles borrowed from some of the menswear themes as they riffed on Andean references, and included wacky additions such as colored feather boas, stoles and hats that gave the female designs a slightly 1920s Parisian twist.

Gender fluidity is a hot theme in the increasingly androgynous styles in Paris. Labels such as Maison Margiela have gone co-ed in recent collections, as designers blur the definition of any boundaries between men's and women's clothes to produce genderless designs.

JACQUEMUS DREAMS OF BLUER SKIES

Much-feted womenswear designer Jacquemus returned to male designs Sunday, one year after the young French designer expanded his lines into menswear with a show in southern France.

Simon Porte Jacquemus, 29, found fashion fame for his relaxed, summery women's styles that harkened to his native city of Marseille on the Mediterranean coast.

Here in Paris, and in menswear, the fall-winter collection captured this nonchalant, sunny vibe in light open white cotton sweaters with an outdoors motif, a loose double breasted yellow suit worn against bare skin and an unseasonably bright color palette.

An olive tree that made up the set decor glistened in the background, and contrasted with the misty Parisian weather outside.

Broad square pockets and boxy proportions provided one new style idea, but the show was too relaxed for its own good and lacked the creative energy of his women's designs.

Its most potent effect was to spur on fatigued fashionistas to yearn for bluer skies and warmer temperatures.

___

Thomas Adamson can be followed at www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K

  • Associated Categories: Associated Press (AP), AP National News, AP Online National News, AP World News, AP Entertainment, APOnline Celebrity News, AP Business
© Copyright 2020 AccessWDUN.com
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed without permission.
Kenzo explores designer's roots at Paris Fashion Week
Psychedelic Peruvian paintings covered panel upon panel of Kenzo's fall menswear show at Paris Fashion Week
11:49AM ( 5 minutes ago )
The Latest: TSA says many of its workers calling out of work
The impacts of the record-breaking partial government shutdown are continuing to escalate
11:41AM ( 14 minutes ago )
Polish PM calls for respect in public life after mayor slain
Poland's conservative Prime Minister Mateusz Morawiecki has called on politicians and public figures to make the public debate more respectful after the slaying of Gdansk city mayor which raised calls for national reconciliation
11:37AM ( 18 minutes ago )
Associated Press (AP)
IRA dissidents suspected in Northern Ireland car bomb blast
Northern Ireland politicians are condemning a car bombing outside a courthouse in the city of Londonderry
11:15AM ( 39 minutes ago )
US, South Korean diplomats attend NKorea talks in Sweden
Sweden says diplomats from South Korea and the United States are to attend tripartite "small-format" talks with a North Korean colleague in the Nordic country along with "a small group of international experts"
11:02AM ( 53 minutes ago )
Graham says he'll ask Trump to meet Pakistan, Afghan leaders
A leading U.S. Republican Senator Lindsey Graham says he will urge President Donald Trump to meeting with the leaders of Pakistan and Afghanistan so that they can come up with an agenda to end Afghanistan's 17-year war
10:50AM ( 1 hour ago )
AP World News
The Latest: 1 day, 5 1st-time quarterfinalists in Australia
Stefanos Tsitsipas has become the fifth player on Day 7 of the Australian Open to reach a Grand Slam quarterfinal for the first time
8:19AM ( 3 hours ago )
The Latest: Defending champ Federer ousted by Tsitsipas
Two-time defending champion Roger Federer's has been upset in the fourth round of the Australian Open by Stefanos Tsitsipas, who becomes the first player from Greece to reach the quarterfinals at a major
7:25AM ( 4 hours ago )
The Latest: 2018 finalist Cilic loses to Bautista Agut
Roberto Bautista Agut broke Marin Cilic's serve in the ninth game of the last set and held on to beat the 2018 runner-up 6-7 (6), 6-3, 6-2, 4-6, 6-4 to reach the Australian Open quarterfinals
5:25AM ( 6 hours ago )
AP Entertainment
Reports: Sony drops R. Kelly after furor over allegations
Multiple outlets have reported that Sony Music has dropped embattled R&B star R. Kelly from its roster
6:15PM ( 1 day ago )
Wendy Williams to take health-related break from TV show
Wendy Williams' family says she is taking an extended break from her TV talk show to deal with health issues
2:57PM ( 1 day ago )
Britain's Prince Philip, 97, recovers after Land Rover crash
Queen Elizabeth II's husband Prince Philip was recovering at the royal Sandringham estate after the Land Rover he was driving rolled over in a collision with another vehicle
1:12PM ( 1 day ago )
APOnline Celebrity News
Lebanon uses Arab summit to call for Syrian refugees' return
Lebanon is using an Arab economic summit to call for the return of Syrian refugees to safe areas of their war-torn country, where the nearly eight-year civil war is still underway despite a recent series of government victories
8:24AM ( 3 hours ago )
With Trump out, Davos chief eyes fixing world architecture
The founder of the World Economic Forum says U.S. President Donald Trump would have been an "interesting discussion partner" at its annual Davos event starting this week but acknowledges that the partial U.S. government shutdown scuttled those plans
8:19AM ( 3 hours ago )
Democrats aren't buying Trump's shutdown-ending 'compromise'
Trump pitches shutdown proposal that helps some immigrants as a compromise, but Democrats aren't buying it
6:27AM ( 5 hours ago )
AP Business
The Latest: TSA says many of its workers calling out of work
The impacts of the record-breaking partial government shutdown are continuing to escalate
11:41AM ( 14 minutes ago )
Polish PM calls for respect in public life after mayor slain
Poland's conservative Prime Minister Mateusz Morawiecki has called on politicians and public figures to make the public debate more respectful after the slaying of Gdansk city mayor which raised calls for national reconciliation
11:37AM ( 18 minutes ago )
M. Night Shyamalan's 'Glass' is No. 1 with $40.6M debut
M. Night Shyamalan's "Glass" didn't live up to expectations but it still easily dominated the Martin Luther King Jr. weekend at the box office, debuting with an estimated $40.6 million in ticket sales
11:35AM ( 19 minutes ago )
Paying for funerals impossible for many poor families
Some relatives of people whose cremated remains were found among hundreds in a Detroit funeral home say they would have loved to bury them in marked graves but couldn't afford traditional funeral services
11:30AM ( 24 minutes ago )
Boat with migrants rescued off Libya looks for port to dock
A private rescue boat with dozens of migrants aboard has sought permission for a second day to enter a safe port, but says that so far its queries to several nations haven't succeeded
11:25AM ( 29 minutes ago )